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Have any of the more experienced Cuties tried hooping sticky stablizer(used so there is a large retangle hole in the center) with the water soluable at the same time so it sticks to the edge of the used sticky parts? I wondered if it would work to keep it from slipping in the hoop without messing up the design.
by eastwitch2
04 May 2012
It may work but I think that using the strips of shelf liner adhered with the Wonder tape to the bottom of the inner hoop works best and it can be left on your hoops for all embroidery on all fabrics and stabilizers.
by marjialexa
04 May 2012
I think it would work fine, according to a friend who does just that to save WSS. I personally never had things 'slip' in my hoop, so really can't comment on the shelf liner. Friend Debbie uses it, though. Hugs, M
by rescuer
05 May 2012
My hoops haven't slipped yet...thank goodness. However, I am told one day they will. I just want to be prepared. Thanks for answering.
57620Try 2 layers of water soluble stabilizer.
Usually when an outline in a FSL design is not right or connecting it is because the water soluble stabilizer is slipping in the hoop or being pulled into the middle of the hoop by all the needle motions forming all the sititches in FSL.
To help solve this problem you can get the rubbery, holey shelf liner and put strips of it on the long sides and top and bottom sides of your hoop adhered to the bottom of your inner hoop with Wonder tape that is a 2 sided, water soluble tape.
This really works and there are pictures on the Criswell website that shows how to do this.
The link is below, just click the link and then on the link page you can click on each picture for a close up of each picture.
Do not put the shlef liner strips in the corners of the hoop as the hoop is tightest in the corner but much looser on the long sides and top and bottom sides and that is where all the movement of stabilizers or fabrics ad stabilizers occur when embroidering.
EastWitch2
7969wow..........thanks everyone. I am definitely inspired to forge ahead by your helpful, caring voices.Joan
9536I always use 2 layers of WSS on all my freestanding lace designs. Sometimes it misses a corner or a few stitches, which I then stitch by hand.
21543Good advice. I have had this problem too every now and then. I alually just add the stitches by hand when it happens. But that is frustrating and time consuming. I will try using 2 layers next time. thanks, Susan
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299557I always start out with 2 layers of WSS - if it looks like the density is going to be great - I will float another layer - I am not sure which FSL Bookmarks you are doing - but think that most of the by DBC would work with the 2 layers - however - when you 1st started it out - with the 1 layer then added the 2nd - it might already have been distorted - the best thing to do - if it didn't work - is start over - unless you feel that you can save this one - but doing a small satin stitch around it - place a layer of WSS underneath it - before you start that stitch and it might help. Let us know - what happened.
211078Did you stretch the wet n gone too tight.I have had this problem too.and sliped another bit of stabalizer underneeth. on two of the designs when this happened I joined the bit that was not joined by hand, and was not seen.I allso had to use two layers of the best and most exspensive stabaliver.
Hugs Pam.
30988Are you sure that it is an FSL item?
If it is, you probably need more WSS. If it is a thick design I like to use two to three layers of WSS.
I also like to use badge master, which is very thick and has to be rinsed out longer.
Shirleen, on Cuties is the expert on FSL. Hope this helped.
Hugs, Bonnie
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