A low density of the satin stitch and no underlay would prevent tearing of the vinyl. That would be easier if it were an applique and not reverse applique as the latter might show "pokies" of the fabric, although it would be a nice stiffener. Donnagennick's solution would be nice, just make the outline a tiny bit wider than the satin stitch so it runs just touching it, not over it.
How and where would you insert the name? I can't see how in your drawing. A U-shape instead of the rectangle would be the easiest.
Just my thoughts on it. As it is 5 am I might not be clear headed enough at the time. i'll sleep on it for a while.
You are always clear headed!! Love you!!
These two satins are part of the design. Start by laying down a vinyl and felt (which may be pleather if this comes together). Do the outline for the small satin then cut the felt (reverse applique) then do the small satin. Then add felt to the back just under the height of the bigger satin(and I did a smaller piece too to make a pocket for cash, etc). Then sew the bigger satin and cut out. This leaves an opening on the back to insert the badge. I also have a little rectangle satin that is part of the design and is cut open to put the badge strap through.
I know you asked for digitising help but here are two links to ready-made ID holders, both are reasonably priced and the work is already done for you (as in test stitching etc) hth :) xXx
Thank You for these links. I will take a better look at Reen's to see if I can make it work (Moose is nice but not what the style I am seeking).
When I made "I-Spy" bags, with vinyl windows, I found it helpful to do the stitching in a different order than the design does it. After the outline stitch, cut out the fabric only inside of the outline, where the vinyl will eventually be. Then sew the satin stitch along the edges of the cut out section, on the fabric edges and stabilizer. Finally, place a piece of vinyl on the BACK of the hoop, and do ONLY the outline stitch again to hold the vinyl in place. You can use either matching or contrasting thread for the topstitching. This way, the vinyl has only a single line of straight stitching, rather than the dense satin stitching. It's worked well for me, holding the vinyl in place without perforating it too much--and my I-Spy bags have seen some rough use!
Thanks for your feedback. I will see if I can find a different design to play with - the one I tried was a bunch of different things put together and the outline stitch does not fit well so it would not look very good "over" the satins - but your idea is a great though!
Totally agree with donnagennick...the sewing order is the key and using only a run stitch to tack down the vinyl..I did not think that it would hold up to a satin border...
Hmmm, are you sure that the vinyl will hold up to a satin stitch outline? Have you tried it on your regular sewing machine set up for a satin stitch? Just curious..
No, I have not tried it on a regular sewing machine. I have tried it only on the embroidery machine with the design that I shrunk.... I am not sure it will work even with a "good" design but was hoping it would....